Cambodia is my current location. Siem Reap would actually be a nice town except its rainy season and there's mud everywhere. This place has really taken off from when I was here in 2000. Where there used to be one bar there is now a whole street of tourist bars and restaurants. Everything here is priced in USD. Used to take Baht too. They're not into taking Baht too much these days though since 2 years ago when the Thais laid claim to Angkor Wat. No surprisingly, the Khmers are very proud of Angkor Wat so burnt down the Thai embassy creating quite the international incident.
The journey here was a proper b'stard. Actually stronger words are in order. I was feeling rather slack and didn't want to get stuck in the Cambodian border town of Poi Pet. Lonely Planet lists it as a 'hole' with no redeeming features. Anyway, ended up on one of these crap bus scams. Caught the bus at 7:30 in Bangkok. Had to wait until about 9 before it left and it then proceeded to the border at an incredibly slow pace. Then we had to wait at the border. Then cross the border and wait for about 3 hours. Didn't get to Siem Reap until midnight where they drop you at a guesthouse on the outskirts of town. Serves me right for being lazy and taking tourist transport when I'm quite capable of getting about like the locals. Seems to be very little waiting around, I just arrive, totally unaware of the time (I have no watch) and there's a bus about to leave. Learnt that trick in Sumatra and it seems to work universally. This would have got me there 6 hrs earlier!
The road has not improved in 6 years, I think it has actually got worse. Although there are now buses instead of the back of a Toyota Hilux. In the feeble orange headlights of the bus the road surface looked not unlike NASA images of Mars although I think it would be a smoother ride on Mars. Maybe they should develop a commercial version of the Rover for Cambodian use. I think a hovercraft service would do real well. At one place there was a detour sign before a rickety wooden bridge which we hooned right past. The drivers helper / guide hopped out, jumped up and down on it, then we cruised over anyway. We had only been moving for about a half hour before the driver got out and filled up the radiator. Then the aircon stopped so he got out and fixed that. Then the suspension. All part of the time waste to get you in town in the middle of the night. So many people had left excellent feedback on the whiteboards there, guess they were grateful to have accommodation after an arduous trip and weren't savvy enough to realise it was a scam.
Yesterday was pretty laid back. Had breakfast with 3 fullas, a Malaysian, a Japanese and an Indian from new york. An unlikely bunch we were, met them on the bus. I'm not into supporting scams, so left and found a decent guest house in town. Got some tasty restaurants here and Internet access. Decent broadband, no decent road but they have a good Internet and mobile network! I had a very good dinner with an English chick comprising of a Cambodian fish dish called Amok. Highly recommended! Gave a $ to a dude with no arms. He was jovial despite his condition and very pleased. $1 will probably feed him for 2 or 3 days at local prices. There are a lot of amputees here due to the several million land mines still dotting the region.
This moto rider kept harassing me for custom. After a little while the idea looked pleasing so I jumped on for a $1 hours ride around the place. We cruised around a bit, me scoping for people from my bus but naught to be found so I asked to go to a cheap bar, so he takes me to a "massage"parlour. Gets a commission I take it. So I went in for a look anyway. There was a large window behind which sat about 20 very beautiful, very bored Asian women. They probably have to sit there all night. All these older Chinese looking dudes were coming and going. I got the guy to drop me off at the tourist bars. What a horrid place, not unlike Khaosan road but a bit classier and without the markets. Was a lot of awful, loud western music there all competing with each other. After toying with the idea of getting a drink and having a yarn, I stumbled across a really good bookshop which was infinitely more interesting than the dreadful cacophony outside. Did enough drinking in Ayutthaya I figured so was quite content to have an early night. I saw Happy Herb Pizza on my way back, I remember that place from last time : )
I was going to attempt to get into Angkor Thom for a night mish... there being a nice full moon but gave up on that. There is so much cloud, one can't even see the moon let alone wander about ruins beneath its light. Still got a big gash on my shin from a barbed wired fence in Ayutthaya! The sun does shine during the day here however, followed by an awesome afternoon downpour. More like the rainy season I remember as opposed to the constant cloud and smog of Bangkok.
Goings on in Bangkok before I left...
People seem to be friendlier of late, not sure if its the vibe I put out, the effect of the full moon or what. Its big Buddha day today as a young Thai fulla called it (Buddhist lent I just found out) so there is a public holiday today and tomorrow. Kind of put a spanner in the works for acquiring some USD to get to Cambodia.
After 2 hours of massage the other night I was feeling pretty good so hung out in the gutter in search of frivolous banter. No beer necessary. Had a good chat to a french Canadian. I think she was a lesbian, looked like a boy, spoke with a deep voice and had a strong handshake. Good sort though. She had Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy in French. She's living with a bunch of young Thai fullas. Good way to experience the culture.
Kebab o'clock came around and it came was some excellent 'street theatre'. This dorky looking European fulla was standing against a wall looking like the noddy he was. This overly made up, bling wearing Thai girl with an arm full of shopping, a new bag and false smile was standing across from him at a food vendor. She turned and waved at him and said "Bye". He immediately walked over and grabbed the bag and shopping off her. She was trying to snatch her new treasures back and they had a little scuffle and some heated argument. Was most entertaining for both me and this Spanish lass sitting at the Kebab stand. In fact I was laughing my arse off purely at his expense but serves him right.
There was this crook as Aussie guy at my guesthouse the last night. He was a good sort so I gave him some Codrals and he was feeling much better. Cant go past those good old legally obtainable opiate and amphetamine pills. Cure anything, well, makes you feel cured until it goes away of it's own accord anyway.
Better get out of here before the afternoon storm!
No comments:
Post a Comment